Loake vs Solovair: British Boots for Different Purposes

Two British Makers, Different Traditions

Loake and Solovair are both Made in England. Both use Goodyear welted construction. Both produce boots and shoes that will outlast anything on the high street. But they come from different traditions, serve different purposes, and suit different wardrobes.

We stock both at The British Boot Company. This is how they compare, and how to choose between them.

Heritage

Loake has been making shoes in Kettering, Northamptonshire since 1880. Five generations of the Loake family. The tradition is classic English shoemaking — brogues, Oxfords, Chelsea boots, and dress shoes built for offices, weddings, and smart-casual wear. Loake is the boot for people who dress up.

Solovair is made by NPS in Wollaston, Northamptonshire — a factory operating since 1881 that spent thirty-five years producing the original Dr Martens. The tradition is working boots and subcultural footwear — derby boots, steel toes, and air-cushioned soles. Solovair is the boot for people who dress to last.

Same county. Same construction method. Completely different design philosophy.

Construction

Both brands use Goodyear welted construction on their core ranges. Both can be resoled. Both use leather insoles that mould to the foot over time. In terms of build quality, they are peers.

The sole differs significantly. Solovair uses an air-cushioned rubber sole — the same bouncing, shock-absorbing sole technology that defined Dr Martens. It is comfortable on hard surfaces, forgiving on long days, and distinctively casual in appearance.

Loake typically uses leather soles or Dainite rubber soles. Leather soles are dressier — they look and sound different underfoot — but they wear faster on pavement and offer less grip in wet conditions. Dainite rubber is a studded sole that splits the difference: smarter than Solovair's air-cushioned sole, grippier than leather.

Leather

Both brands use full-grain leather, but the finishes differ. Solovair offers greasy, hi-shine, and smooth finishes — leathers that are designed to develop character with wear. They look better at six months than at six days.

Loake uses polished, burnished, and waxy leathers — finishes that are designed to look refined from the start. A well-polished pair of Loake brogues looks appropriate in a boardroom. A pair of Solovair greasy derbies looks appropriate at a gig.

Neither is better. They serve different contexts.

Fit

Solovair runs true to UK sizing with a medium width. Half sizes are available across most styles. The fit is consistent across the range because most boots use the same last family.

Loake uses multiple lasts — different styles are built on different foot shapes. Some Loake shoes run narrow (the Capital last), others run wider (the Pennine last). You need to check the specific last for the style you are buying. This is one area where trying on in person — or asking us before ordering — really matters.

Price

Solovair boots range from roughly £180–£250. Loake boots and shoes range from £200–£350, with some premium lines higher. The price difference reflects the different finishing standards and the dress-shoe heritage of Loake rather than a difference in construction quality.

At the overlap point — around £220–£250 — you are choosing between a Solovair derby boot and a Loake brogue boot. Same construction method, same Northamptonshire provenance, completely different shoe.

Style

Solovair suits: jeans, chinos, casual trousers, workwear, streetwear, subcultural dressing. The derby boot is the core. Chelsea boots and monkey boots round out the range.

Loake suits: tailored trousers, suits, smart chinos, smart-casual office wear, weddings. The brogue is the core. Chelsea boots and Oxford shoes complete the range.

If your wardrobe centres on denim and leather jackets, buy Solovair. If your wardrobe centres on wool trousers and blazers, buy Loake. If your wardrobe includes both — buy both.

The Verdict

Buy Solovair if: you want a tough, casual, everyday boot with air-cushioned comfort. You wear jeans more than suits. You want the boot that inherited the original Dr Martens construction. Start with the 8-Eye Derby in Greasy Black.

Buy Loake if: you want a refined, smart-casual boot or shoe that works with tailoring. You need something for the office, a wedding, or any situation where a derby boot feels too casual. Start with the Bedale Brogue Boot.

Both are Made in England. Both are Goodyear welted. Both will last a decade or more. The choice is not about quality — it is about what you need the boot to do.

Read our Complete Boot Buying Guide for more on construction and styling, or visit us in Camden Town and try both.